Reviews

Fiano di Avellino by Vesevo

Over the last couple of months I have often found myself recommending wines from Italy’s southern Campania region. The three main indigenous white grape varieties, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Falanghina have benefited from a new international approach to winemaking, while the most noteworthy reds, produced from Aglianico are showing signs of being able to stand up to what many consider as the more serious wines from Tuscany and Piedmont.

Campania as a wine region can be traced back as far as the 12th century BC, always being referred to as a fertile land, rich in minerals and ideal for the production of quality wine. The influence of Vesuvius is evident here as a complex and diverse combination of volcanic terroirs, combined with hot dry summers and mild winters have for centuries provided the conditions for a number of rare varieties to feel right at home. Grapes such as Coda di Volpe, Piedirosso and Asprino, although not renown for premium wine production are now starting to appear on the international radar.

Today, wines from Campania are considerably better than they were even 10 years ago. It is no longer a surprise to see these grape varieties sitting on wine … Read more…

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Cantine Lenotti

Two wines have caught my attention in this recent spell of bad weather, mainly due to their ability to put a little bit of sunshine in my glass. A Valpolicella and a very unpretentious Sangiovese and Merlot blend going by the name of Rosso Passo. Both of these wines are produce by well respected producer in the Veneto called Cantine Lenotti.

Lenotti’s winemaking credentials can be traced back to 1906 where a reputation was earned selling local wine of recognised quality.

The Rosso Passo is  a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot and is perfect for those lazy evenings where unwinding is more important than contemplating the subtle nuances of a finer wine. It is simply good juice from good fruit vinified in stainless steal and released early while the wine exudes the natural Cherry and plum characteristics of the grapes. At just 12.5% you forgive yourself for finishing the bottle.

The Valpolicella, as you might expect, is richer with an ethereal, velvety texture of red fruits and just a touch of bitter almonds. The grapes of the region, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara come together to form a blend that, at this price point, shows brilliant balances and depth of flavour.… Read more…

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Barolo 2005 Vintage Report

Barolo, when done properly is magical and ‘the king of wines’ needs little introduction. With just one or two outstanding vintages per decade and the price of the top wines well above £50 a bottle the importance of estate and vintage becomes crucial to purchasing decisions and so with the 2005s starting to appear on restaurant lists and in independent shops a run through of the vintage seemed a useful exercise.

The DOCG regulations stipulate that Barolo must be produced from 100% Nebbiolo and with the grape being one of latest to fully ripen in Italy it is clear that the quality of the wines are reliant on favourable weather conditions just before the harvest. 2005 was certainly a tricky vintage with the summer seeing extended wet periods and relatively cool temperatures while October rains just before picking did some damage, although the more established names managed to get the fruit into the winery avoiding dilution. A little evidence of rot and uneven ripening can be found but like most years, there are plenty of growers who made excellent wines.

The vintage was different from the preceding 2004, which is considered to be one of the best of the decade, due … Read more…

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